Technique for leathering wooden blocks

Wooden blocks banging on the rail, or any where else where you have paint or varnish are a pain. By leathering those blocks they no longer cause damage. It\’s simple, easily done, and will add a touch of class to the old bird.

This is a properly leathered block that will not damage the varnish by banging. Notice the bronze access covers so the block can be serviced without removing the leather cover.
This is a properly leathered block that will not damage the varnish by banging. Notice the bronze access covers so the block can be serviced without removing the leather cover.
The process starts out by making an acurite template to cut the leather from. This allows a tight fit and avoids the "whoops" factor.
The process starts out by making an acurite template to cut the leather from. This allows a tight fit and avoids the "whoops" factor.
Here is one template and the leather piece it was used to cut
Here is one template and the leather piece it was used to cut
Here you have the two side pieces
Here you have the two side pieces
Very carefully mark the stiching holes on 1 cm centers. Then do the same on the side pieces. Drilling the heavy leather with a 1 mm drill bit before you start sewing makes it much easier to sew. The leather should be soaked in fresh water for 30 minutes to soften it before sewing.
Very carefully mark the stiching holes on 1 cm centers. Then do the same on the side pieces. Drilling the heavy leather with a 1 mm drill bit before you start sewing makes it much easier to sew. The leather should be soaked in fresh water for 30 minutes to soften it before sewing.
At that point the leather will be slightly smaller than required to allow for stretching when wet.
At that point the leather will be slightly smaller than required to allow for stretching when wet.
Here is one of the shells half finished and ready to be wrapped around its block. Before doing that we coat the inside with a thick layer of natural sheep lanolin mixed with bees wax.
Here is one of the shells half finished and ready to be wrapped around its block. Before doing that we coat the inside with a thick layer of natural sheep lanolin mixed with bees wax.
When the leather is damp it is much easier to work with and will stretch nicely to give a snug fit. When finished we smear the leather with a mixture of lanolin, bees wax, and linseed oil to protect it.
When the leather is damp it is much easier to work with and will stretch nicely to give a snug fit. When finished we smear the leather with a mixture of lanolin, bees wax, and linseed oil to protect it.
Here is that block in use as a square sail tack.
Here is that block in use as a square sail tack.

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